Travis Albanza has a story to tell: A burger is thrown on Waterloo Bridge, mayonnaise sticks to a dress and no-one comes to help. On stage Albanza appears from a large packing case with a ready-made kitchen, electrics and utensils; cardboard boxes and pink tape. The idea is to make a burger, find out what it’s like… “how it flies”. Albanza says “I’m obsessed with this… I want to get agency… control”; to seek resolution with the weapon. Albanza talks about choices “Hot dog or Burger?”, changes, differences and expectations. These themes are played out in the making of a burger: the bun, the patty, the trimmings. All these are analysed and explained in clever ways, cut, moulded and chopped to create a show.

There is droning background music as the audience enters, harsh backlighting, a feeling of menace. Albanza lightens the mood with wisecracks and hand mime. Beneath the blue boiler suit is a vivid dress and bright belt; Albanza is disappointed at our modest response to the reveal but cheers up when the young audience is wowed by the high heels. Albanza grew up in Bristol and there are name checks for Bristol neighbourhoods in a dialogue about meat, chicken or vegetarian burger choice: “It’s your burger… your life!” Albanza gets angry at times, shouting, swearing; then calms, flirting, gossiping. There is traditional innuendo and conventional slapstick. There are clever improvised lines thrown in amongst the emotive and forceful words of the script, and the contrasts work well. As do the historical references of non-binary figures and characters from diverse cultures. Albanza taints this good work with occasional throw-away clichés which wouldn’t stand up to analysis, and needn’t do if Albanza hadn’t made such a prominence of underpinning this show with factual argument. There is both criticism and use of stereotypes, sometimes in the same turn of phrase. The show relies heavily on audience participation to a degree that detracts from Albanza’s natural talents as a performer and entertainer. The initial interplay between performer and audience volunteer works well though. Albanza grows more monologic, the language more dense, as the show progresses; the satisfying subtleties of Albanza’s script and Sam Curtis Lindsay’s direction suffer for this.

We are in an age of YouTube influencers, Twitter rants and RuPaul so theatre like this has to work hard in finding innovation. One person’s critique of the world around us can be narrow and insular and Albanza expects a lot from his audiences who must answer questions of blame and accountability. Nonetheless Burgerz is an intense show with challenging elements around lifelong struggles and insecurities. There are themes of race, gender, sexuality and class that are both provocative and inspiring. A forthright, thought-provoking performance from a capable and energetic performer.    Adrian Mantle   ★★★☆☆   21^st November 2019